Cork offers potential for creating circular cosmetics

Original Article by Personal Care Insights

A study has found that cork powder has potential applications in a wide range of cosmetic products, especially in makeup formulations and exfoliators. Due to its recyclable and biodegradable properties, the byproduct of cork processing presents a possible solution to creating more environmentally sustainable cosmetics. 

The beauty industry is turning toward more environmentally sustainable practices, says the authors. 

Personal Care Insights discusses the study’s findings with Isabel Almeida, professor of Chemistry and Cosmetic Technology at the University of Porto, Portugal and study supervisor, delving into cork powder’s sustainability and potential in beauty solutions.

“Compared to commonly used ingredients such as polyethylene beads (now banned in many countries) or mined silicas, cork powder offers a natural, eco-friendly alternative with lower ecological toxicity and a significantly reduced carbon footprint,” says Almeida.

The study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetics Science, finds that 78% of Europeans believe environmental issues directly affect their health and daily lives. It adds that European citizens prefer a circular economy model and are willing to pay a higher price for recyclable, easy-to-repair, or sustainable products. 

The authors stress that the beauty industry is turning toward more environmentally sustainable practices, as it currently “massively impacts natural resources consumption.”

Minimizing environmental impact

The study reports that using a circular approach is cost-effective and resource-efficient. Cosmetics increasingly incorporate mass-produced goods such as coffee, wine, and olive oil, which have high amounts of byproducts and can deliver skin and environmental benefits. 

The research suggests that cork is a “highly sustainable model” because of its harvesting process. Cork production also generates a large amount of waste, which is commonly used for energy production. Because of its high content of bioactive compounds, cork is being explored for cosmetics. 

“Cork powder represents an environmentally sustainable ingredient for cosmetic application for several reasons. Firstly, it is a byproduct of cork processing, thus promoting a circular economy. Secondly, unlike synthetic microbeads or certain polymers still used in exfoliating products, cork powder is fully biodegradable, offering a safer alternative for the environment,” says Almeida. 

She adds: “Its production has a low environmental footprint, as the cork is extracted from cork oaks, which then regenerate and can be removed over multiple cycles without harming the tree. These cork trees also play an important role in carbon sequestration and the preservation of biodiversity, particularly in Mediterranean ecosystems.” 

Cork powder has shown great potential for makeup formulations.

Cork in makeup

Cork powder, with its brown color and high absorption capabilities, is a suitable alternative in decorative cosmetics such as makeup foundations, concealers, and bronzers. 

“Cork powder is also particularly suitable for incorporation into facial or body exfoliating products due to its natural abrasive properties. Its unique structure enables gentle physical exfoliation that removes dead skin cells without causing skin irritation,” says Almeida.

“Beyond exfoliation, cork powder can also be integrated into powder-based formulations, namely compact powders and emulsified systems such as creams and lotions. In decorative cosmetics like foundations and concealers, cork powder provides a brownish color to the formulation while working as a pigment. 

“Additionally, its porous structure provides mattifying and absorbent properties, particularly relevant for cosmetic products for oily-prone skin,” she continues. 

Study results

The study measured the stability of the cosmetic formulations over 90 days, storing them in glass containers at controlled temperatures. When stored dry, they showed no changes in PH levels or color.

“Future studies should explore the potential extraction of bioactive compounds and whether they benefit the skin,” says the study. 

Almeida explains that the powder’s safety for skin application was ensured up to a 5% content.

“The statement refers to the results of the safety assessment, including in vitro cytotoxicity tests in human keratinocytes and skin irritation studies using the 3D EpiSkin.”

The study used a validated model — 3D EpiSkin — to evaluate skin irritation of cosmetic ingredients, which demonstrated that cork powder, when incorporated into formulations at concentrations of 5%, did not induce cytotoxic or irritant effects, concludes Almeida.

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