Trainers grown from microbes, not materials
Original article by sustainablebrands.com
Fashion’s sustainability problems are no secret. Behind every runway show and seasonal drop lies a system responsible for up to 10 percent of global carbon emissions, endless water waste, and mountains of discarded textiles that clog landfills. But if the latest market data is any sign, the appetite for change is growing: The global sustainable fashion market reached $8.06 billion in 2024 – up from $7.5 billion the previous year. While that’s a sliver of the $1.5 trillion global fashion industry, it’s a sign that change is more than just a seasonal trend.
Adding to that, regulators are tightening the screws, consumers are demanding transparency, and investors are shifting capital toward circular models and regenerative materials. The challenge? Turning good intentions into viable, scalable solutions.
In this Innovation Watch, we spotlight five technologies and tools that are helping fashion brands to not just do less harm, but to build better systems that can outlast the trend cycle.
Trainers grown from microbes, not materials
In a collaboration between fashion and science, New York-based brand Public School (PSNY) and Fashion Institute of Technology professor Dr. Theanne Schiros have developed a trainer made almost entirely from biologically grown materials. The shoe’s upper, midsole and laces are crafted from a microbial bio-leather grown by researchers at Columbia University using a process more commonly associated with kombucha. Unlike many vegan leathers that rely on synthetic binders or plastic additives, this alternative is created entirely from microbial cellulose, plant dyes and natural cork.
How it works
The process begins with a SCOBY – a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast – typically used in fermenting kombucha. Schiros sources SCOBY waste from a local brewery, then feeds it sugars to stimulate the production of bacterial nanocellulose. This nanocellulose has superior elasticity and tensile strength compared to plant-derived cellulose, making it durable enough for use in footwear. Once fermented, the material is dried directly in a trainer-shaped mold – eliminating the need for cutting patterns and avoiding associated material waste. The bio-leather is then dyed using plant-based pigments, including indigo fixed with soy milk and natural colors derived from acacia bark and myrobalan seeds. The outsole is made from cork, and the entire shoe is designed to be compostable at the end of its life – returning nutrients to the soil rather than clogging landfills.
Image credit: Jon Brown, courtesy of One x One
Why climate-conscious brands should care
As pressure mounts to move beyond animal-derived and fossil-based materials, microbial textiles offer a truly regenerative alternative. This project shows how lab-grown materials can be both low-impact and high-performance; and how small-scale, experimental collaborations can spark broader shifts in how fashion thinks about production. By using waste from the food industry, eliminating offcuts through molding and designing for end-of-life compostability, the PSNY trainers embody multiple principles of circular design. While still in the prototype phase, this work points toward a future where garments and accessories can be grown to shape, customized at source and returned safely to the earth – with no plastic in sight.
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